Regina the Witch Free Amigurumi Pattern

Regina the Witch Free Amigurumi Pattern Jump to Pattern

I’m so excited to be publishing this free amigurumi witch pattern. I absolutely love Halloween! I decorate both the inside and outside of my house every year.

Growing up, Thanksgiving and Christmas stressed me out – so much cleaning, shopping, cooking, traveling, etc. I always looked forward to Halloween, because it’s a lot of fun without much stress. Now that I’m grown I enjoy preparing for and hosting holidays, but Halloween still holds a special place in my heart. 🎃 👻

That said, I definitely don’t like scary or violent Halloween themes. I have enough anxiety in my life. I don’t enjoy being scared for fun. 😂 I prefer cute, friendly and colorful with just a touch of spooky!

Until now I’ve only made animal amigurumi patterns. I’ve been wanting to create a doll for a while! With Fall settling in, it was the perfect opportunity to create this free amigurumi witch pattern. I was inspired by some of my favorite not-so-scary sorceresses like Winifred Sanderson from Hocus Pocus, Kiki from Kiki’s Delivery Service, and Mary from Mary and the Witch’s Flower.

It’s my most complex pattern to date, but arguably one of the easiest. The only sewing you’ll have to do is attaching the limbs and embroidering the nose!

  • Regina the Witch Free Amigurumi Pattern
  • Regina the Witch Free Amigurumi Pattern
  • Regina the Witch Free Amigurumi Pattern
Regina the Witch Free Amigurumi Pattern
Print

Regina the Witch

Height: 19" standing
Skill level: Intermediate-Advanced
Ravelry: Regina the Witch

Happy Halloween! "Witch" way to the candy?! Get into the Halloween spirit with this free witch amigurumi pattern.

Supplies

Yarn (acrylic, weight 4)

Notes

Abbreviations
sc: single crochet
inc: complete two single crochets within the same stitch
BLO: back loop only
dec: invisible decrease
dec3tog: an invisible decrease combining three stitches together instead of two
slst: slip stitch
ch: chain
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet

Recommended Sequence
Do whatever makes the most sense to you, but these are the steps I took to make my doll, in order:
  1. Crochet Hat, Head & Torso
  2. Crochet the Arms
  3. Add Trim on Sleeves to both Arms
  4. Crochet the Legs
  5. Add Trim on Shoes to both Legs
  6. Add Skirt to Torso
  7. Attach Arms & Legs to Torso (see next note)
  8. Add Hat Brim to Hat
  9. Add Hair to Head

Size Up Hook on Slip Stitch BLO Rounds
There are several rounds in this pattern that will instruct you to slip stitch around in the back loop only. Often in a later step, you'll be crocheting into the exposed front loops created by slip stitching into the back loop. Slip stitches often turn out tighter than regular single crochets and that can make them difficult to work into later on, so you may want to consider sizing up to a 4.0mm (G) hook for all slip-stitched BLO rounds.

Jogless BLO Rounds & Color Changes
Be sure to check out my tutorial on how to create jogless BLO rounds. I also use this technique when changing colors before or after a BLO round.
The video explains how to "loop-under" and chain 1 before starting the round. If changing colors, simply complete the chain with the new color, and tighten the strands of both colors down before proceeding.

Marking Stitches for Eye Placement
On round 41 of the Hat, Head & Torso, it will instruct you to place stitch markers in certain stitches. These help you know where to place your safety eyes in a later step. You can either use traditional plastic stitch markers like you would use to track the beginning and end of your rounds (make sure they're a different color) or use short strands of yarn.

How to indent the eyes
Note: The video above shows a unicorn, but the technique is the same for all of my patterns.
Step 1 – Cut a strand of yarn approximately 18" long. Tie a large, secure knot in one end and thread the other end through your yarn needle.
Step 2 – Insert your needle through the back opening of the head and sew between the two spots where you'll be placing your safety eyes (marked with your color 1 stitch markers).
Step 3 – Pull your strand of yarn taut, which will create indents.
Step 4 – Fasten off with a knot and hide your yarn tail inside the head.

Attaching Arms and Legs
For general assembly instructions, see the Tutorials page. It describes using an invisible ink marker to mark the stitches you're going to sew into, but obviously that won't show up on the black yarn used in this pattern. You may want to try using a white fabric pencil or a piece of chalk instead.

Video Hair Tutorial
For written instructions, see the "Hair" section of the pattern.

Avoid Curling on Hat Brim and Bangs
The bangs and brim of the hat won't want to lay flat - they'll naturally want to curl up. To help combat this, I crocheted around some floral wire in the last round of the hat brim, and secured the ends of the wire together with a small piece of electrical tape. However, I don't recommend doing this if small children will have access to your doll.
Another thing I did to prevent curling was steam the bangs and hat brim with a clothing steamer. Although the brim did not want to curl anymore, the steam made it much droopier. This was offset by the floral wire in the last round. It worked perfectly for the bangs, no caveats!

Embroidering the Nose & Adding Blush
Halloween Witch Crochet Pattern Amigurumi Free | Nose Tutorial
Attach a 36 inch strand of yarn that matches the skin tone of your doll to a yarn needle.
Stitch on a nose in the center of the face to your liking. Pass your needle through the same stitches over and over to build up the shape of the nose.
When you've achieved the look you want, secure the ends with a knot, then hide them inside the head.
To add rosy cheeks, I applied regular blush from my makeup bag with a regular makeup brush.

Instructions

Hat, Head & Torso

  • The hat, head and torso are crocheted together as one piece. We’ll start with the tip of the hat and work our way down.

    With black yarn:
    01. start 3 sc into a magic ring [3]
    02. inc in each st around [6]
    03. sc 5, inc [7]
    04. sc 3, inc, sc 2, inc [9]
    05. sc 4, inc, sc 4 [10]
    06. sc 2, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 2 [12]
    07. sc 11, inc [13]
    08. sc 6, inc, sc 5, inc [15]
    09. sc 14, inc [16]
    10. sc 4, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 3 [18]
    11. sc 9, inc, sc 8 [19]
    12. sc 5, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 4 [21]
    13. sc 10, inc, sc 10 [22]
    14. sc 5, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 5 [24]
    15. sc 23, inc [25]
    16. sc 6, inc, sc 11, inc, sc 6 [27]
    17. sc 26, inc [28]
    18. sc 7, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 6 [30]
    19. sc 29, inc [31]
    20. sc 8, inc, sc 14, inc, sc 7 [33]
    21. sc 32, inc [34]
    22. sc 8, inc, sc 16, inc, sc 8 [36]
    23. sc 35, inc [37]
    24. sc 9, inc, sc 17, inc, sc 9 [39]
    25. sc 38, inc [40]
    26. sc 10, inc, sc 19, inc, sc 9 [42]
    27. sc 41, inc [43]
    28. sc 11, inc, sc 20, inc, sc 10 [45]
    29. sc 44, inc [46]
    30. sc 11, inc, sc 22, inc, sc 11 [48]

    Switch to cream yarn:
    31. BLO: slst in each st around [48]
    32. BLO: sc in each st around [48]
    33. *sc 7, inc* [54]
    34. sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 5 times, sc 4 [60]
    35 - 40. sc in each st around [60]
    41. sc 24, sc and insert stitch marker (this is the 25th st), sc 15, sc and insert stitch marker (this is the 41st st), sc 19 [60]
    42 - 44. sc in each st around [60]
    45. sc 4, dec, *sc 8, dec* 5 times, sc 4 [54]
    46. *sc 7, dec* [48]
    47. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3 [42]
    48. *sc 5, dec* [36]
    49. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 5 times, sc 2 [30]

    Lightly stuff the hat, leaving the tip mostly empty so it can easily bend, then firmly stuff the head. Sew between the two marked stitches on the head to create indents for the eyes (see tutorial in the "notes" section). Insert eyes and secure backings.

    50. *sc 3, dec* [24]
    51. sc, dec, *sc 2, dec* 5 times, sc [18]
    52 - 53. sc in each st around [18]

    Now sc 3 additional stitches. This ensures your color join will be on the back of the neck. These stitches are not included in the stitch count for round 53 nor for round 54. Move your stitch marker to the last of the 3 additional stitches and continue on with round 54 as normal.

    Switch to black yarn:
    54. BLO: slst in each st around [18]
    55. BLO: sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
    56. sc in each st around [24]
    57. *sc 3, inc* [30]
    58. sc in each st around [30]
    59. sc 2, inc, *sc 4, inc* 5 times, sc 2 [36]
    60. sc in each st around [36]
    61. *sc 5, inc* [42]
    62. sc in each st around [42]
    63. sc 3, inc, *sc 6, inc* 5 times, sc 3 [48]
    64. sc in each st around [48]
    65. *sc 7, inc* [54]
    66. sc in each st around [54]
    67. sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 5 times, sc 4 [60]

    Now sc 6 additional stitches. This ensures your color join will be on the back of the body. These stitches are not included in the stitch count for round 67 nor for round 68. Move your stitch marker to the last of the 6 additional stitches and continue on with round 68 as normal.

    Switch to dark purple yarn:
    68. BLO: slst in each st around [60]
    69. BLO: sc in each st around [60]
    70 - 71. sc in each st around [60]

    Switch to black yarn:
    72. BLO: slst in each st around [60]
    73. BLO: sc in each st around [60]
    74 - 75. sc in each st around [60]
    76. sc 4, dec, *sc 8, dec* 5 times, sc 4 [54]
    77. *sc 7, dec* [48]
    78. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3 [42]
    79. *sc 5, dec* [36]
    80. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 5 times, sc 2 [30]

    Firmly stuff body ¾ full.

    81. *sc 3, dec* [24]
    82. sc, dec, *sc 2, dec* 5 times, sc [18]
    83. *sc, dec* [12]

    Finish stuffing.

    84. dec in each st around [6]

    Cut working yarn leaving a tail of about 8 inches and close with an ultimate finish. Hide the tail inside the body with a yarn needle.

Arms (make 2)

  • With cream yarn:
    01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
    02. inc in each st around [12]
    03. *sc, inc* [18]
    04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
    05. sc in each st around [24]
    06. 4dc in the first st, sc 23 [27]
    07. sc, dec3tog, ch, sc 23 [26]
    08. sc in each st around [26]
    09. sc, dec, sc 23 [25]
    10. sc, dec, sc 22 [24]
    11. sc in each st around [24]
    12. *sc 10, dec* [22]
    13. sc in each st around [22]
    14. sc 10, dec, sc 10 [21]
    15. sc in each st around [21]
    16. sc 19, dec [20]
    17. sc in each st around [20]
    18. sc 9, dec, sc 9 [19]
    19. sc in each st around [19]
    20. sc 17, dec [18]

    Now sc 13 additional stitches. This ensures your color join will be on the back of the arm. These stitches are not included in the stitch count for round 20 nor for round 21. Move your stitch marker to the last of the 13 additional stitches and continue on with round 21 as normal.

    Switch to black yarn:
    21. BLO: slst in each st around [18]
    22. BLO: sc 8, dec, sc 8 [17]
    23. sc in each st around [17]
    24. sc 15, dec [16]
    25. sc in each st around [16]
    26. *sc 2, dec* [12]

    At the end of round 26, crochet one additional sc in the next stitch, then fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the arm with fiber fill. Do not over-stuff the arm or it won’t lay flat against the body. The top part of the arm near the opening doesn’t need much stuffing at all. Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.

Trim on Sleeves (add to both Arms)

  • We’ll be crocheting into the exposed front loops (the black ones) from round 22 on the Arms. If you're unsure how to do this, see my video tutorial: How to Crochet into a BLO Round. Note that the video instructs you to single crochet in each loop around, but in this case you'll be half-double-crocheting (hdc) in each loop around instead.

    With black yarn, create a slip knot on your hook, leaving a tail of about 6 inches.

    01. Starting in the first front loop of round 22 (the first black front loop), ch 2, hdc in the same loop, then hdc in each front loop around [18]
    02. slst, ch 3, do not turn, *dc 2, 2dc* [24]

    Cut your working yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches, then create an invisible finish. Tie the ending tail to the starting tail with a secure knot, then hide the tails inside the arm with a yarn needle.

Legs (make 2)

  • With black yarn:
    01. Chain 3 start: ch 3, inc in 2nd ch from hook, 5sc in the last ch. Continue on the other side of the chain base, 3sc in the last ch [10]
    02. inc, sc 2, *inc* 3 times, sc 2, *inc* 2 times [16]
    03. inc, sc 4, *inc* 2 times, sc, inc, sc 4, *inc* 2 times, sc [22]
    04. inc, sc 6, *inc, sc* 2 times, inc, sc 6, *inc, sc* 2 times [28]
    05. inc, sc 8, inc, sc 2, inc, sc, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 2, inc, sc [34]
    06 - 07. sc in each st around [34]
    08. sc 28, *dec* 3 times [31]
    09. *dec* 3 times, sc 21, *dec* 2 times [26]
    10. *dec* 2 times, sc 22 [24]

    Now sc 12 additional stitches. This ensures your color join will be on the back of the leg. These stitches are not included in the stitch count for round 10 nor for round 11. Move your stitch marker to the last of the 12 additional stitches and continue on with round 11 as normal.

    Switch to light purple yarn:
    11. BLO: slst in each st around [24]
    12. BLO: sc in each st around [24]
    13. sc 11, dec, sc 11 [23]

    Switch to dark purple yarn:
    14. sc in each st around [23]
    15. sc 21, dec [22]

    Switch to light purple yarn:
    16. sc in each st around [22]
    17. sc 10, dec, sc 10 [21]

    Switch to dark purple yarn:
    18. sc in each st around [21]
    19. sc 19, dec [20]

    Switch to light purple yarn:
    20. sc in each st around [20]
    21. sc 9, dec, sc 9 [19]

    Switch to dark purple yarn:
    22. sc 17, dec [18]
    23. *sc 7, dec* [16]

    Switch to light purple yarn:
    24. *sc 2, dec* [12]
    25. sc in each st around [12]

    Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly with fiber fill. Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.

Trim on Shoes (add to both Legs)

  • We’ll be crocheting into the exposed front loops (the black ones) from round 11 on the Legs. If you're unsure how to do this, see my video tutorial: How to Crochet into a BLO Round. With black yarn, create a slip knot on your hook, leaving a tail of about 6 inches.

    01. Starting in the first front loop of round 11 on the Legs, sc in each front loop around [24]

    Cut your working yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches. Tie the ending tail to the starting tail with a secure knot, then hide the tails inside the leg with a yarn needle.

Skirt

  • The skirt will be worked in rows. At the end of each row, slst, ch 3 and turn before beginning the next row. Slip stitches and chains do not count as a stitch.

    We’ll be crocheting into the exposed front loops (the black ones underneath the purple band on the torso) from round 75 of the Hat, Head & Torso. If you're unsure how to do this, see my video tutorial: How to Crochet into a BLO Round. Note that the video instructs you to single crochet in each loop around, but in this case you will be double-crocheting in each loop around instead.

    With black yarn, create a slip knot on your hook, leaving about 6 inches.

    01. Starting in the first front loop of round 75, ch 3, dc in the same st, then dc in each front loop around [60]
    02. ch 3, *dc, 2dc* [90]
    03 - 04. ch 3, dc in each st around [90]

    Cut your working yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches. Tie the ending tail to the starting tail with a secure knot, then hide the tails inside the body with a yarn needle.

Hat Brim

  • We'll be crocheting into the exposed front loops (the black ones - the last round of the hat portion) in round 30 of the Hat, Head & Torso. If you're unsure how to do this, see my video tutorial: How to Crochet into a BLO Round.

    Hold the point of the hat up towards your face so the stitches of your hat brim will end up facing right-side-out. Leaving a tail of about 6 inches, create a slip knot on your hook.

    With black yarn:
    01. Starting in the first front loop of round 30, sc around in the exposed front loops [48]
    02. *sc 7, inc* [54]
    03. sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 5 times, sc 4 [60]
    04. *sc 9, inc* [66]
    05. sc 5, inc, *sc 10, inc* 5 times, sc 5 [72]
    06. *sc 11, inc* [78]
    07. sc 6, inc, *sc 12, inc* 5 times, sc 6 [84]
    08. *sc 13, inc* [90]
    09. sc 7, inc, *sc 14, inc* 5 times, sc 7 [96]
    10. *sc 15, inc* [104]
    11. sc 8, inc, *sc 16, inc* 5 times, sc 8 [110]

    Cut your working yarn, leaving a tail of about 8 inches, then create an invisible finish. Using a yarn needle, weave the ending tail into the underside of the brim until it is even with the starting tail. Tie the ending tail to the starting tail with a secure knot, then hide the tails inside the head with the yarn needle.

Hair

  • See the notes section for a video tutorial! We'll be starting in the middle of the back of the head, working around. We'll complete half of the long curly strands, then the bangs, then the second half of the long curly strands as we work around.

    Note: The number at the beginning of each line in a pattern usually corresponds with an entire round, but in this case it corresponds with a single stitch from round 32 of the Hat, Head & Torso. There are 48 stitches in that round, meaning there are 48 exposed front loops to crochet the hair into.

    With orange yarn, create a slip knot on your hook, leaving a tail of about 6 inches.

    First half of long strands:

    01. slst in the first front loop of round 32 (the first cream front loop) of the Hat, Head & Torso, ch 41, sc in second ch from hook, then sc in each remaining ch [40]
    02 - 15. slst in the next front loop, ch 41, sc in the second ch from hook, then sc in each remaining ch [40]

    Bangs:

    16 - 33. slst in the next front loop, ch 14, then slst again in the same loop [14]

    Second half of long strands:

    34 - 48: slst in the next front loop, ch 41, sc in the second ch from hook, then sc in each remaining ch [40]

    Cut your working yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches. Tie the ending tail to the starting tail with a secure knot, then hide the tails inside the head with a yarn needle.

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