Crochet Sheep – FREE pattern!

free sheep crochet pattern (amigurumi pattern)

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I didn’t choose the yarn, the yarn chose me.

When I saw Yarn Bee Velvety Smooth Aran on the shelves during a recent Hobby Lobby run, it called to me.

It practically jumped into my basket and begged me to turn it into soft, snuggly sheep’s wool. Who am I to impede the dreams of a skein?

I brought it home and buried my fingers in the squishy, velvety yarn as I conceptualized my sheep crochet pattern.

Yarn Bee Velvety Smooth Aran from Hobby Lobby

A standard single crochet design would be fine, but something that gave the fleece extra fluffy, plushy dimension would be even better.

I started experimenting with the Bobble Stitch and fell in love.

I got exactly the look I was going for, though I learned a few lessons about designing with bobbles the hard way:

There must be a single crochet between each bobble stitch. This helps the bobbles to “pop” and prevents overcrowding (more on this below).
Join your rounds. At the end of a round, you will slst into the first stitch of the round to join, then chain 1 before starting the next round (you do not turn the work).If you try to do a standard continuous spiral as with most amigurumi, the bobbles end up staggered rather than stacked, and it creates gaps in the work.
There must be a round of single crochets between each round of bobbles. Otherwise, the bobbles crowd each other and the work ends up too dense.

Designing with bobbles was a fun challenge.

For the sake of continuity, I wanted my sheep to have the same general dimensions as the rest of my farm animal crochet patterns.

After some quick calculations, I figured out that a bobble is roughly the same size as a 2×2 grid of standard single crochets. So for every bobble round, I’d subtract two rounds of single crochets.

To keep things easy, I avoided adding increases or decreases in bobble rounds, and simply doubled up the increases or decreases in the single crochet rounds.

I was able to recreate my standard animal body shape using bobbles, and was thrilled with the final result!

I’ve included a step-by-step video tutorial, and single crochet version of the pattern.

Making this sheep can be tricky because of the bobble stitches. I want to set everyone up for success–even if you’re not a particularly experienced crocheter–so I created a Sage the Sheep video crochet along:

I’ll walk you through making your sheep from start to finish. If you get stuck at any point while following the written pattern, be sure to check out the videos. It can really help!

If you attempt the bobble rounds and end up throwing your work across the room in frustration, don’t worry; I’ve included a single crochet version of this pattern as well. You can still make an adorable sheep without the fuss of bobbles.

Can’t find velvet yarn? No worries.

It’s important to me that the materials required to make my patterns are accessible and affordable for everyone.

I’ve heard how hard it can be to track down specialty yarns in some parts of the world, so I make sure all of my patterns can be made with inexpensive acrylic yarn that can be found at any craft store. Ol’ reliable Red Heart will work just as well.

Crochet Sheep Pattern Free | Amigurumi Lamb

Sage the Sheep – Bobble Version

Height: 13.5" standing
Skill level: Intermediate
Ravelry: Sage the Sheep

Sage is very soft and cuddly, with an adorable sheepish grin. She can be rather 'baaa'shful, but will always be there for ewe!

Supplies

Yarn (acrylic, weight 4) – 342 total yards

Tan – 113 yards (I used Red Heart Super Saver – Buff)
White – 200 yards (I used Yarn Bee Velvety Smooth Aran – White)
Brown – 29 yards (I used Red Heart Super Saver – Cafe Latte)

Notes

Abbreviations

ch – chain
sc – single crochet
bobble – 4 incomplete double crochets worked in the same st, then yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on your hook.
inc – complete two single crochets within the same stitch
dec – combine two stitches into one with an invisible decrease
BLO – crochet in the back loop only
*sc x* – repeat the instructions between asterisks(*) the indicated number of times. If the pattern doesn’t tell you how many times to repeat, then repeat the sequence until you reach the end of the round.

General Instructions

Work all stitches in both loops unless the pattern instructs otherwise.
The single crochet portions of this pattern are worked in one continuous spiral. Do not join rounds unless the pattern indicates otherwise (in other words, do not slip stitch and chain to start a new round).
The bobble portions of this pattern are worked in joined rounds. At the end of the round, slip stitch into the first stitch of the round. Chain 1 before beginning a new round.
The stitch count at the end of each bobble round does not include the slip stitch/chain 1.
Use a stitch marker to keep track of where one round ends and the next begins.
For single crochet rounds, I prefer to place my stitch marker in the last stitch of the round.
For bobble rounds, I prefer to place a stitch marker in both the first stitch of the round and in the last stitch of the round. That way I don’t accidentally crochet into the slst or ch 1 of the previous round.

Making Bobbles “Pop”

Make sure the single crochets between your bobbles are nice and tight. Pull on your working yarn after completing the single crochet to help accomplish this. Making tight single crochets between bobbles eliminates gaps and makes your bobbles “pop.”

Recommended Sequence
Here are the steps to create your sheep, in order:

Crochet the Ears
Crochet the Head
Crochet the Body
Crochet the Arms
Crochet the Legs
Crochet the Tail
Attach the Head to the Body
Attach the Legs to the Body
Attach the Arms to the Body
Attach the Tail to the Body

Sage the Sheep Video Crochet Along on YouTube

Watch Now!

Making this sheep can be tricky because of the bobble stitches.

I want to set everyone up for success–even if you’re not a particularly experienced crocheter–so I created a Sage the Sheep video crochet along on YouTube.

I’ll walk you through making your sheep from start to finish.

If you get stuck at any point while following the written pattern, be sure to check out the videos.

Head: Round 15 – Marking Stitches for the Eyes

Round 15 – Eyes | Sheep Crochet Pattern Tutorial 1

Now you will add two stitch markers that will show you where to insert your safety eyes at a later step.

Place the markers 18 stitches apart anywhere between rounds 14 & 15 (the last two rounds you’ve completed). I chose to put mine on the opposite side from the end of round 15.

You will leave the eye markers in place as you crochet rounds 16 – 30. I recommend using strands of yarn to mark these stitches, ensuring they’re easy to crochet around.

Use a yarn needle to insert each strand.

Head: Round 22 – Marking Stitches for the Ears

Round 21 – Ears | Sheep Crochet Pattern Tutorial 2

At the end of round 22, you are going to mark 4 stitches in the round you just completed to show where you should attach the ears in round 23.

Start by placing 2 stitch markers centered above the eye markers, with 18 stitches in between.

Then place 2 additional stitch markers, with 2 stitches between the outer and inner stitch markers, as shown in the picture.

Head: Round 23 – Crochet Ears to Head

Crochet round 23 as normal until you hit the first stitch marker.

Attach an ear to the head while crocheting until you’ve worked the second marked stitch.

Complete the next 18 stitches as normal until you hit the next stitch marker.

Attach the other ear to the head as you crochet until you’ve worked the last marked stitch. Complete the round as normal.

Stuff Head & Add Safety Eyes

Stuff the head 3/4 full. Cut a strand of yarn of about 2 feet long.

Tie a large, secure knot in one end and thread the other end through your yarn needle.

Insert your needle through the back opening of the head and sew between the two spots where you’ll be placing your safety eyes (marked with strands of yarn).

Pull your strand of yarn taut, which will create indents. Fasten off with a knot and hide your yarn tail inside the head.

Insert your safety eyes and secure the backings.

How to Make Cloven Hooves

Cut your working yarn and leave a tail of about 18″, but do not fasten off yet.

Stuff the limb. In the final round, add however many single crochets as necessary to get the color join front-and-center on the limb. Now pull on your working loop until the strand comes free to fasten off.

Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch it closed.

Cut an 18″ strand of brown yarn and attach one end to a yarn needle.

Pass the needle through the magic ring in the center of your hoof, then through the top of the hoof (above the last round of brown). Repeat this process a few times, pulling the yarn taut each time.

When you’re satisfied with the look, attach the starting tail to the ending tail with a secure knot. Hide both tails inside the work.

Instructions

Ears (make 2)

With tan yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. *sc, inc* 3 times [9]
03. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 2 times, sc [12]
04. *sc 3, inc* 3 times [15]
05. sc 2, inc, *sc 4, inc* 2 times, sc 2 [18]
06. *sc 5, inc* 3 times [21]
07 – 09. sc in each st around [21]
10. *sc 5, dec* 3 times [18]
11. sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 2 times, sc 2 [15]
12. *sc 3, dec* 3 times [12]
13. *sc, dec* 4 times [8]

Fasten off and leave a 12" tail. Fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed, then hide the tail inside the work using a yarn needle.

Your ear is now ready to crochet into the head at a later step.

Head

With tan yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* 6 times [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
05. *sc 3, inc* 6 times [30]
06. sc 2, inc, *sc 4, inc* 5 times, sc 2 [36]
07 – 08. sc in each st around [36]
09. *sc 5, inc* 6 times [42]
10 – 11. sc in each st around [42]
12. sc 3, inc, *sc 6, inc* 5 times, sc 3 [48]
13 – 14. sc in each st around [48]
15. *sc 7, inc* 6 times [54]

Marking Stitches for the Eyes: Insert two markers 18 stitches apart between rounds 14 & 15. These markers will show you where to place your safety eyes at a later step.

For additional details and a photo, see "Head: Round 15 – Marking Stitches for the Eyes" in the Notes section of the pattern.

16 – 17. sc in each st around [54]

Switch to white yarn & 4.5mm hook:
18. slst in each stitch around [54]

Switch back to 3.5mm hook:
19. BLO: sc in each st around, slst to join [54]
20. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 27 times, slst to join [54]

21. ch 1, sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 5 times, sc 4, slst to join [60]
22. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 30 times, slst to join [60]

Marking Stitches for the Ears: You are now going to mark 4 stitches in round 22 (the round you just completed) to show where you should attach the ears in round 23. See "Head: Round 22 – Marking Stitches for the Ears" in the Notes section of the pattern for instructions.

Crochet Ears to Head: As you crochet round 23, attach the ears where indicated. I've included a video tutorial under "Head: Round 23 – Crochet Ears to Head" in the Notes section.

23. ch 1, sc in each st around, attaching ears where indicated, slst to join [60]
24. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 30 times, slst to join [60]

25. ch 1, sc in each st around, slst to join [60]
26. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 30 times, slst to join [60]

27. ch 1, *sc 3, dec* 12 times, slst to join [48]
28. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 24 times, slst to join [48]

29. ch 1, *sc 2, dec* 12 times, slst to join [36]
30. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 18 times, slst to join [36]

Stuff Head & Add Safety Eyes: Stuff head ¾ full, create indents for the eyes, then add your safety eyes. See “Stuff Head & Add Safety Eyes” in the Notes section for details and a video tutorial.

31. ch 1, *sc, dec* 12 times, slst to join [24]
32. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 12 times, slst to join [24]

33. ch 1, *dec* 12 times, slst to join [12]
34. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 6 times, slst to join [12]

Finish stuffing.

35. *dec* 6 times [6]

Cut your working yarn and close with an Ultimate Finish.

Adding a Border on the Face

Now we’ll be adding a border of single crochets around the face, working into the exposed front loops from round 19 of the head. This border helps create the illusion that the wool is sitting “on top” of the sheep’s skin.

With white yarn:
01. Single crochet in each exposed loop around [54]

End with an Invisible Finish, and secure with a knot. Hide the tail inside the work.

Body

With white yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring, slst to join [6]
02. ch 1, (sc + bobble) in each st around, slst to join [12]

03. ch 1, inc in each st around, slst to join [24]
04. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 12 times, slst to join [24]

05. ch 1, *sc, inc* 12 times, slst to join [36]
06. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 18 times, slst to join [36]

07. ch 1, sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 11 times, sc, slst to join [48]
08. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 24 times, slst to join [48]

09. ch 1, *sc 7, inc* 6 times, slst to join [54]
10. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 27 times, slst to join [54]

11. ch 1, sc in each st around, slst to join [54]
12. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 27 times, slst to join [54]

13. ch 1, *sc 7, dec* 6 times, slst to join [48]
14. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 24 times, slst to join [48]

15. ch 1, sc in each st around, slst to join [48]
16. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 24 times, slst to join [48]

17. ch 1, sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 5 times, sc 3, slst to join [42]
18. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 21 times, slst to join [42]

19. ch 1, *sc 5, dec* 6 times, slst to join [36]
20. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 18 times, slst to join [36]

21. ch 1, sc 2, dec, *sc 4, dec* 5 times, sc 2, slst to join [30]
22. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 15 times, slst to join [30]

23. ch 1, *sc 3, dec* 6 times, slst to join [24]
24. ch 1, *sc, bobble* 12 times, slst to join [24]

25. ch 1, sc in each st around, slst to join [24]

Fasten off and leave a tail the length of your arm span (roughly 5+ feet) for sewing. Stuff with fiber fill.

Arms (make 2)

With brown yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* 6 times [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
05. BLO: sc in each st around [24]
06 – 07. sc in each st around [24]

Switch to tan yarn:
08. sc in each st around [24]
09. sc 11, dec, sc 11 [23]
10. sc in each st around [23]
11. sc 21, dec [22]
12. sc in each st around [22]
13. sc 10, dec, sc 10 [21]
14. sc in each st around [21]
15. sc 19, dec [20]
16. sc in each st around [20]
17. sc 9, dec, sc 9 [19]
18. sc in each st around [19]
19. sc 17, dec [18]
20. sc in each st around [18]
21. sc 8, dec, sc 8 [17]
22. sc in each st around [17]
23. sc 15, dec [16]
24 – 25. sc in each st around [16]
26. *sc 2, dec* 4 times [12]

To prep the arm to attach at a later step, see "How to Make Cloven Hooves" in the Notes section of the pattern.

Legs (make 2)

With brown yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a magic ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* 6 times [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
05. *sc 3, inc* 6 times [30]
06. BLO: sc in each st around [30]
07 – 08. sc in each st around [30]

Switch to tan yarn:
09. sc in each st around [30]
10. sc 14, dec, sc 14 [29]
11. sc 27, dec [28]
12. sc 13, dec, sc 13 [27]
13. sc 25, dec [26]
14. sc 12, dec, sc 12 [25]
15. sc 23, dec [24]
16. sc 11, dec, sc 11 [23]
17. sc 21, dec [22]
18. sc 10, dec, sc 10 [21]
19. sc 19, dec [20]
20. sc 9, dec, sc 9 [19]
21. sc 17, dec [18]
22. *sc 7, dec* 2 times [16]
23. *sc 2, dec* 4 times [12]

To prep the leg to attach at a later step, see "How to Make Cloven Hooves" in the Notes section of the pattern.

Tail

With white yarn:
01. Chain 5 start: ch5, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, 5sc in the last ch. Continue on the other side of the chain base, sc 2, 3sc in the last ch [14]
02. inc, sc 4, *inc* 3 times, sc 4, *inc* 2 times [20]
03 – 05. sc in each st around [20]
06. sc, dec, *sc 2, dec* 4 times, sc [15]
07. *sc, dec* 5 times [10]
08. sc in each st around [10]

Fasten off and leave an 18" tail for sewing. Lightly stuff, then fold the top opening in half and slip stitch closed.