by 
My Free Frog Crochet Pattern Breaks from the Norm
Until now, I have always used black 15mm safety eyes for my patterns, but that didn’t feel like a good fit for this amigurumi frog. For the first time ever, I used some larger sparkly safety eyes instead!
The eyes have the pupils off to one side, which I think is so much cuter and lifelike than having them in the center. I’m not sure what to call this style, but I’ve heard these safety eyes referred to as “offset eyes” or “moon eyes,” since the iris is shaped like a crescent moon.
When inserting your safety eyes, make sure you press on the backings really tight! I tried to do it myself and to my shock, the eyes fell off shortly after.
I had my husband take a whack at it and he had to use a lot of force, but he was able to get them on securely. You should not be able to see the edges of the eye when the backings are installed properly.
Playful Poses Made Possible by Crocheted Joints
I wanted Fidget the Frog to have bendy, springy legs just like a real frog. Designing this free frog crochet pattern gave me the opportunity to devise a new technique: crocheted joints!
Adding joints allows you to create flexible limbs that can be posed in so many fun ways. You can display your crocheted frog in a traditional sitting pose, a lotus yoga pose, or sit him upright like a human with his legs hanging down—he looks darling in all of them!
Don’t Sweat the Color Changes
One feature I love about this free frog crochet pattern is that the color changes on the body are hidden under the arms. Even if color changes aren’t your strong suit, your frog will still look fly (sorry, I love terrible puns).
When you’re ready to switch colors, start with the previous stitch. Work the stitch as usual, but pause when there are two loops remaining on your hook—just before you would typically yarn over and pull through to complete the stitch. Yarn over with the new color, and pull it through both loops on your hook. Let the previous color drop behind your work.
Continue working with the new color, then use this same technique when you are ready to switch back to the previous color.
A No-Sew Design for Stress-Free Crafting
As I’ve grown as a designer, I’ve enjoyed experimenting with more complex shapes and techniques. This frog amigurumi pattern is a reflection of that evolution. He’s a fun change-of-pace from the basic sphere and tube shapes that are so common in amigurumi.
If you’re like me and prefer to keep assembly to a minimum, you’ll love that Fidget is designed to be almost entirely no-sew! His cheeks are the only parts that require sewing, and you’re welcome to skip them if you’d like.
I wanted this free frog crochet pattern to be as beginner-friendly as possible while still creating a polished finished product. I hope this makes the process relaxing and enjoyable, so you can focus on the joy of crocheting without the hassle of complicated assembly.
Resources
Photo Tutorials
Video Tutorials
Fidget the Frog
Height: 17 inches (43cm) standing Skill Level: Intermediate Crochet Terms: USLeap into some fun with Fidget the Frog! With his sparkly eyes and springy legs, he’s the life of the lily pad. This is the one time you’ll enjoy frogging your work!
Supplies
- 3.5mm (E-4) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
- Fiber fill
- (2) 25mm safety eyes
- Straight pins
222 yards of acrylic (weight 4) yarn:
- Pink – 5 yards (5m / 3g)
- Dark Green – 189 yards (173m / 103g)
- Light Green – 28 yards (25m / 15g)
Notes
Steps to Complete Pattern
- Crochet the Tongue
- Crochet the Cheeks
- Crochet the Arms
- Crochet the Legs
- Crochet the Eye Bumps
- Crochet the Head & Body
Abbreviations
- BoR – beginning of round
- ch – chain
- dec – combine two stitches into one with an invisible decrease
- EoR – end of round
- FLO – crochet in the front loop only
- hdc – half double crochet
- inc – complete two single crochets within the same stitch
- sc – single crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- *sc x* – repeat the instructions between asterisks (*) the indicated number of times
- (sc x) – attach a body part while completing the stitches inside parentheses as instructed by the pattern
General Instructions
- This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining.
- Use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round. Move the marker up each round.
- Work all stitches in both loops unless the pattern instructs otherwise.
- When creating joints, ch 1 at beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
- Before starting the project, review the list of video tutorials mentioned below.
Pattern Gauge
30 sts by 5 rounds in sc = 2 inches (5cm)
Work rounds 01 – 05 of Eye Bumps. Press flat on solid surface and measure across the diameter of the circle. Piece should measure 2 inches (5cm) across.
Note: Using the same yarn brand for all colors will ensure that all parts of the pattern match gauge once gauge is obtained.
Video Tutorials
I’ve made lots of video tutorials that will be referenced throughout this pattern. They will be marked with a clickable play button symbol. A full list of tutorials can be found in the video tutorials section of the pattern.
Instructions
Tongue (optional)
With pink yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a Magic Ring [6]
02 – 10. sc in each st around [6]
Fasten off, leaving a 9-inch (23cm) tail. Do not stuff the tongue. Press the final round together and Slip Stitch Closed. Hide the remaining yarn tail inside the work.
The tongue is now ready to attach as you crochet the Head & Body at a later step.
Cheeks (make 2)
with pink yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a Magic Ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30cm) yarn tail. Create an Invisible Finish. Secure with a knot on the back of the work, leaving the remaining yarn tail intact.
The cheeks are now ready to sew to the Head & Body at a later step.
Arms (make 2)
with dark green yarn, make three fingers:
01. start 6 sc into a Magic Ring [6]
02. sc in each st around [6]
Fingers 1 & 2:
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15cm) yarn tail.
Finger 3:
Do not fasten off.
Joining the Fingers: In round 03, join the fingers together. To view a tutorial, watch my How to Join Pieces video.
03. Finger 1: (sc in first 3 sts), Finger 2: (sc in each st around), Finger 1: (sc in last 3 sts), Finger 3: (sc in each st around) [18]
04. sc in each st around [18]
Using the attached yarn tails between the fingers and a yarn needle, sew the gaps closed. Secure with a knot and hide the remaining yarn tails inside the work.
05. *sc 7, dec* 2 times [16]
06. sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 2, leave remaining st unworked [13+1]
Shifting the BoR: Press round 06 together to flatten the hand. The last worked stitch should be flush with the edge of the hand. If it is not flush, add or remove stitches as necessary.
Move EoR stitch marker into the last worked st. This is considered the EoR for round 06. The next stitch will be the BoR for round 07.
Creating the Wrist Joint: Create the wrist joint as you crochet rounds 07 & 08. Do not stuff the hand. To view a tutorial, watch my Crocheted Joints video.
07. ch 1, turn clockwise, press round 06 together and sc through both layers across [7]
Insert EoR stitch marker into the front loop of last sc.
As you crochet the next round, work into the front loops on one side and the remaining back loops on the opposite side to open the joint and continue with the arm.
08. ch 1, turn clockwise, FLO: sc 7, work into the remaining back loops on the opposite side (skip BoR ch): sc 7 [14]
09 – 13. sc in each st around [14]
14. sc 6, dec, sc 6 [13]
15 – 19. sc in each st around [13]
Lightly stuff the arm.
20. sc 11, dec [12]
21 – 28. sc in each st around [12]
Press round 28 together to flatten the arm. The last worked stitch should be flush with the edge of the arm. If it is not flush, add or remove stitches as necessary.
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30cm) yarn tail. Finish lightly stuffing the arm.
Press the final round together and Slip Stitch Closed, then hide the remaining yarn tail inside the work.
The arms are now ready to attach as you crochet the Head & Body at a later step.
Legs (make 2)
with dark green yarn, make three toes:
01. start 6 sc into a Magic Ring [6]
02. *sc 2, inc* 2 times [8]
Toes 1 & 2:
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15cm) yarn tail.
Toe 3:
Do not fasten off.
Joining the Toes: In round 03, join the toes together. To view a tutorial, watch my How to Join Pieces video.
03. Toe 1: (sc in first 4 sts), Toe 2: (sc in each st around), Toe 1: (sc in last 4 sts), Toe 3: (sc in each st around) [24]
04. sc in each stitch around [24]
Using the attached yarn tails between the toes and a yarn needle, sew the gaps closed. Secure with a knot and hide the remaining yarn tail inside the work.
05. sc 5, dec, sc 10, dec, sc 5 [22]
06. *sc 9, dec* 2 times [20]
07. sc 4, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 2, leave remaining 2 sts unworked [16+2]
Shifting the BoR: Press round 07 together to flatten the foot. The last worked stitch should be flush with the edge of the foot. If it is not flush, add or remove stitches as necessary.
Move EoR stitch marker into the last worked st. This is considered the EoR for round 07. The next stitch will be the BoR for round 08.
Creating the Ankle Joint: Create the ankle joint as you crochet rounds 08 & 09. Do not stuff the foot. To view a tutorial, watch my Crocheted Joints video.
08. ch 1, turn clockwise, press round 07 together and sc through both layers across [9]
Insert EoR stitch marker into the front loop of last sc.
As you crochet the next round, work into the front loops on one side and the remaining back loops on the opposite side to open the joint and continue with the leg.
09. ch 1, turn clockwise, FLO: sc 9, work into the remaining back loops on the opposite side (skip BoR ch): sc 9 [18]
10 – 14. sc in each st around [18]
15. sc 8, dec, sc 8 [17]
16 – 20. sc in each st around [17]
21. sc 15, dec [16]
22. sc in each st around [16]
23. sc 12, leave remaining 4 sts unworked [12+4]
Shifting the BoR: Press round 23 together to flatten the leg. The last worked stitch should be flush with the edge of the leg.
Move EoR stitch marker into the last worked st. This is considered the EoR for round 23. The next stitch will be the BoR for round 24.
Lightly stuff the leg.
Creating the Knee Joint: Create the knee joint as you crochet rounds 24 & 25. To view a tutorial, watch my Crocheted Joints video.
24. ch 1, turn clockwise, press round 23 together and sc through both layers across [8]
Insert EoR stitch marker into the front loop of last sc.
As you crochet the next round, work into the front loops on one side and the remaining back loops on the opposite side to open the joint and continue with the leg.
25. ch 1, turn clockwise, FLO: sc 8, work into the remaining back loops on the opposite side (skip BoR ch): sc 8 [16]
26 – 27. sc in each st around [16]
28. sc 12, dec, sc 2 [15]
29 – 33. sc in each st around [15]
34. sc 6, dec, sc 7 [14]
35 – 39. sc in each st around [14]
40. *sc 5, dec* 2 times [12]
41. sc 4, leave remaining 8 sts unworked [4+8]
Press round 41 together to flatten the leg. The last worked stitch should be flush with the edge of the leg. If it is not flush, add or remove stitches as necessary.
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30cm) yarn tail. Lightly stuff the remainder of the leg.
Press the final round together and Slip Stitch Closed, then hide the remaining yarn tail inside the work.
The legs are now ready to attach as you crochet the Head & Body at a later step.
Eye Bumps (make 2)
with dark green yarn:
01. start 6 sc into a Magic Ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
03. *sc, inc* 6 times [18]
04. sc, inc, *sc 2, inc* 5 times, sc [24]
05 – 06. sc in each st around [24]
Fasten off, leaving a 9-inch (23cm) yarn tail. The eye bumps are now ready to join as you crochet the Head & Body at a later step.
Head & Body
DG = with dark green yarn; LG = with light green yarn
01. DG: start 6 sc into a Magic Ring [6]
02. inc in each st around [12]
Joining the Eye Bumps: Join the eye bumps as you crochet the next round. To view a tutorial, watch my How to Join Pieces video.
03. join first eye bump: (sc 24), sc 6 around first half of circle, join second eye bump: (sc 24), sc 6 around second half of circle [60]
04. sc in each st around [60]
Using the attached yarn tails from eye bumps and a yarn needle, sew the gaps closed. Secure with a knot on the wrong side of the work and trim the remaining tail short.
05. sc 7, dec, *sc 2, dec* 2 times, sc 20, dec, *sc 2, dec* 2 times, sc 13 [54]
06. sc 6, dec, *sc 2, dec* 2 times, sc 17, dec, *sc 2, dec* 2 times, sc 11 [48]
07. sc in each st around [48]
08. *inc, sc 8, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 4* 2 times [54]
09. sc 8, inc, *sc 2, inc* 2 times, sc 20, inc, *sc 2, inc* 2 times, sc 12 [60]
10 – 12. sc in each st around [60]
13. sc 20, hdc 18, sc 22 [60]
Adding the Mouth: Create the mouth as you crochet the next round. To view a tutorial, watch my Third Loop video.
14. Creating Mouth with Tongue: sc 20, LG, third loop: sc 10, attach the tongue: (sc 3), sc 5, DG, top two loops: sc 22 [60]
14. Creating Mouth without Tongue: sc 20, LG, third loop: sc 18, DG, top two loops: sc 22 [60]
15 – 16. sc 20, LG: sc 18, DG: sc 22 [60]
17 – 18. sc 21, LG: sc 18, DG: sc 21 [60]
19. sc 4, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 5, LG: sc 3, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 3, DG: sc 5, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 4 [54]
20. *sc 7, dec* 2 times, sc, LG: sc 6, dec, sc 8, DG: sc, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 7, dec [48]
21. sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 4, LG: sc 2, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3, DG: sc 3, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3 [42]
22. *sc 5, dec* 2 times, sc 2, LG: sc 3, dec, sc 5, dec, sc, DG: sc 4, dec, sc 5, dec [36]
Stuff head ¾ full.
Sewing the Cheeks to Mouth: Sew one cheek to each corner of the mouth created in round 14. To view a tutorial, watch my Invisible Stitching video.
Adding the Safety Eyes: Using straight pins, mark location of eyes between rounds 07 & 08 (counted from top of each eye bump), one stitch inward from center (see Figure 1).
Replace straight pins with safety eyes, then secure backings (see Figure 2).
23. sc 2, *dec, sc 4* 2 times, LG: sc, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, DG: sc 2, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2 [30]
24 – 25. sc 12, LG: sc 9, DG: sc 9 [30]
Body:
Attaching the Arms: Attach the arms as you crochet the next round. To view a tutorial, watch my Attach Arms video.
26. sc 6, attach the first arm: (sc 6), LG: sc 9, DG: attach the second arm: (sc 6), sc 3 [30]
27. sc 2, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 3, LG: sc, *inc, sc 4* 2 times, DG: inc, sc 4, inc, sc 2 [36]
28. sc 12, LG: sc 15, DG: sc 9 [36]
29. *sc 5, inc* 2 times, LG: *sc 5, inc* 2 times, sc 4, DG: sc, inc, sc 5, inc [42]
30. sc 14, LG: sc 19, DG: sc 9 [42]
31. sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3, LG: sc 3, inc, *sc 6, inc* 2 times, sc, DG: sc 5, inc, sc 3 [48]
32. sc 16, LG: sc 22, DG: sc 10 [48]
33. *sc 7, inc* 2 times, LG: *sc 7, inc* 2 times, sc 6, DG: sc, inc, sc 7, inc [54]
34. sc 18, LG: sc 25, DG: sc 11 [54]
35. sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 4, LG: sc 4, inc, *sc 8, inc* 2 times, sc 2, DG: sc 6, inc, sc 4 [60]
36 – 37. sc 20, LG: sc 28, DG: sc 12 [60]
38. sc 21, LG: sc 27, DG: sc 12 [60]
39 – 40. sc 22, LG: sc 26, DG: sc 12 [60]
41. sc 23, LG: sc 25, DG: sc 12 [60]
42. sc 23, LG: sc 24, DG: sc 13 [60]
43. sc 4, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 7, LG: sc, dec, *sc 8, dec* 2 times, sc, DG: sc 7, dec, sc 4 [54]
44. *sc 7, dec* 2 times, sc 4, LG: sc 3, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 5, DG: sc 2, dec, sc 7, dec [48]
45. sc 3, dec, *sc 6, dec* 2 times, sc 2, LG: sc 4, dec, sc 5, DG, for remainder of body: sc, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 3 [42]
Attaching the Legs: Attach the legs as you crochet the next round. To view a tutorial, watch my Attach Legs video.
46. sc 15, attach the first leg: (sc 6), sc 9, attach the second leg: (sc 6), sc 6 [42]
At the end of round 46, the legs should appear centered below the arms. If your legs appear off center, redo the round and adjust the placement of the legs as necessary.
47. dec, *sc 3, dec* 8 times [33]
Finish stuffing remainder of head, then stuff the body.
48. sc 2, *sc, dec, sc 2, dec* 4 times, dec, sc [24]
49. sc, dec, *sc 2, dec* 5 times, sc [18]
50. *sc, dec* 6 times [12]
51. *dec* 6 times [6]
Close with an Ultimate Finish.